7.1 Find a place on the discharge pipe under the sink and clamp it on.

Try to have it where it will not block anything, like where you want to put the tank. Drill a hole above the s-bend with a 1/4" drill bit.(make sure it is above the s_bend) Attach the black rubber gasket with the hole in it over the hole in the pipe you just made, position the saddle over that spot and make sure the hole in the saddle lines up with the hole in the pipe and tighten screws, be careful not to over tighten. Put the compression nut on the line and push the line into the the waste saddle. It is ok to force it in. Screw the compression nut on fairly firmly (dont use tools just use your fingers it shouldnt leak there is no water pressure here). This is usually a no problem area.

Make sure that you are above the trap.

If you have a double sink it is OK to place the saddle on the horizontal portion of the piping. The discharge line has to have back pressure or the RO will not work.

Next

Attach the line to the cold water side ONLY. Hot water will ruin the system.

      
Position the needle-piercing valve where you can get to it. It is normally best to have the valve handle on the right (unless you are left-handed) and the connection facing towards the cabinet doors. Tighten the two nuts and bolts. Make sure the line from the valve is connected to the "IN" side of the three big filters across the bottom beforeyou pierce the line.

Clamp the cold water pipe afteryour shut off valve and twist the needle in to the soft copper pipe. If everything looks good, then turn the handle clockwise and pierce the pipe. When it is all the way in, twist it all the way out. Do not---unless in a special situation---use this as an on-off valve as the stem will wear out.

Waste Valves

There are 2 types of waste valves that cause back pressure to force water through the membrane.

This one is an automatic valve and only needs to be in this position to produce clean water. Turning the valve inline will flush the membrane (which is something you should do once a year to prolong the use of the membrane, just turn the valve (black handle) inline and let it run for 10 minutes or so then turn it back)

This type of waste valve  is a manual valve and you will need to follow these instructions. The valve is wide open and you may hear water going into the waste line, close the valve on the top of the tank and open the faucet, slowly turn the waste valve clockwise until you start to get a trickle of water do this very slowly, turn it and wait for a minute before you turn again. You want this to be flowing just a little more than dripping, DO NOT tighten the valve all the way down you can damage the membrane. So take your time and move the valve up or down to make just a trickle of water. Once you've got that then tighten the lock nut and double check the flow.

Open the valve on the tank and you should be ready to go.

 Let the tank fill up (about an hour or so and then empty it, do this three times) .

**It is very important that you flush the unit before you use it, the membrane and tank have antibacterial additives that need to be cleaned out before you use it.**

We do not take responsibility for any damages caused in any way, shape or form ..

***

Instructions for partially assembled unit installation

Take Everything Out of The Box And...

2.1 Examine the contents and check it against the photos. Better to find a mistake now than when you are ½ done.

Contents:

 Faucet, membrane (we may have already installed this for you so look in the membrane housing to see if its there before you call), drain saddle, cold water line connection, filter wrenches, food grade tubing, Reverse Osmosis System (filters are already installed in the system),4.4 gallon tank and a small bag of connectors.

There is a coil of tubing, just cut the tubing to the lengths you need and make sure you cut the ends as square as you can and make sure you are using clean tools. Give them a wipe with some bleach water and rinse them off to make sure they are clean.

One important thing to remember is the tubing needs to be inserted all the way into the connectors, if there is a leak its usually because the tubing is not pushed all the way in, you can usually feel it bottom out when its pushed in correctly. Make sure to put the blue rings back on the connectors if you take them off it will help stop leaks.

2.2 Using a sterile gloved hand insert the RO Membrane. It is shipped sealed for freshness and only can go in one way. (The end with the two small o-rings) The membrane goes into the tube just above the metal brace. The end with the two 0 rings goes in first and make sure its pushed all the way to the back, you may have to turn it.

2.3 Check all of the quick connects to make sure the inserts are inside... they sometimes fall out.

The Quick Connectors are opened by pulling out the blue ring and pushing down on the O ring with two fingernails and pulling the hose, if there is any water pressure in the system it will almost be impossible to pull the tubing out release any pressure if present. If your nails are not user friendly, then use a pair of pliers, a small wrench or any tool that can apply pressure on both sides of the Quick Connector. There are four ways of ensuring against drips. One is Plumbers Joint Compound (with Teflon), the next is Bath and Tile silicone one of these two should do it...on tough leaks and if you really have to get serious, two-part epoxy will seal anything. Reconnect the hose by pushing in. Teflon tape is not good as it is not made for plastics and it slips; however if you insist, pull it tight and work it in to the thread. You may note that some of our threads are sealed with tape...this is special high density tape made for plastics. Put the blue ring back into place when done.

2.4 Take the elbow connector in the bag and screw it in to the IN (left) side of the three pre-filters. Do not over tighten. This fitting seldom develops a drip. If one occurs, tighten a little more.

2.5 Take the short white water hose connected to the "in" side of the 4 way connector (its called the Auto Shut-off Valve or ASV) and push it into the "out" side of the three big filters across the bottom (right side).

2.6 Take the tee and connect it to the filter that sits on top of the membrane housing, then take the line from the out on the ASV and connect it to the tee as shown.

2.7 Connect this fitting to other side of filter attached to the top of the membrane housing.

3.0 Prepare the Tank

The tank has an air bladder and a water bladder inside it. It comes pre-set from the factory at 6-8 PSI. Do not mess with it. Unless we ship this in a steel container, UPS will find a way to damage some of them...yes we can process a damage claim and go crazy with the paper work...however the steel shell is purely protective and the insides will not be harmed in anyway. The tank can stand up straight or it can lay horizontal.

3.1 Put on the tank valve.

This is a plastic to metal fitting. It is recommended that some anti-leak materials be used. Choices are the Plumbers Joint Compound or Teflon Tape. I suggest not using cement, as this part may have to be changed out at some point. I like the Joint Compound with Teflon. I hate call-backs, so I tend to get aggressive with that stuff. The screw on plastic compression nut (white) that holds the hose can be hand tightened. It occasionally drips so I screw this compression nut tightly all the way to the ball valve. Then it never drips.

4.0 Clear the Decks:

The next step is to totally clean out under the sink. Get some rags and wipe up any junk that is on the bottom. There will be some water from somewhere during the installation and you want to be able to wipe it up easily and not create mud. Now, step back and look at where you want the unit and the tank. For some reason, the unit usually ends up on the right side or in front. Remember, you have to service the system so don't make it hard to get at.

5.0 The Faucet

This is the hardest part of the installation since it goes all the way at the back and you have to crawl into the cabinet, so let's do it first. You will be going through one of three types of materials. There is a fourth-porcelain. I know how to do it, but I advise against an amateur trying it. Either find another spot, or call a Pro. If you mess up, you ruin the entire sink. So, I am not going there. a) Laminate: the most common material is a laminated counter top. Find the spot on top, which looks good, and crawl under and see where it is clear. Remember, you have a large plastic washer to put under the counter. The safe thing to do is to drill a pilot hole with your smallest bit first. Better a little mistake than a big mistake. When comfortable drill a ½ inch hole and assemble the faucet. The rubber gasket goes under the chrome faucet and the plastic washer goes under the counter. After the plastic washer, put in the lock washer and then tighten the nut. You may find the faucet up top turning as you turn the stainless steel nut. Either have someone hold it or get inventive, like put a wrench on it and secure the wrench. Be careful not to damage the faucet surface. b) Stainless Steel: Do the same as for laminate, except be really sure of your clear space. Take a metal punch (or a big nail) and give the magic spot a good hit. At this indentation drill a pilot hole. A wood drill will not do it. You must use a metal drill bit suitable for stainless. Once the pilot hole is made, follow up with a ½" hole and attach the faucet. c) Marble or Granite: I would pay someone to make the hole but if your adventurous you can use a diamond bit and drill a hole, you really need to know what your doing so research this before you do it..

7.0 The Discharge Water Saddle:

7.1 Find a place on the discharge pipe under the sink and clamp it on. Try to have it where it will not block anything, like where you want to put the tank. Attach the rubber gasket to the pipe, position the saddle over that spot and screw it on. Drill it out with a 1/4" drill bit. Put the compression nut on the line and push the line into the discharge pipe. It is ok to force it in. Screw the compression nut on fairly firmly. This is usually a no problem area.

Make sure that you are above the trap.

If you have a double sink it is OK to place the saddle on the horizontal portion of the piping. The discharge line has to have back pressure or the RO will not work. Most vendors choose the cheap way to create this back pressure by putting a little plastic insert into the discharge line. It is similar to the little white insert used at the feed water faucet. We have chosen to spend the extra $$ and buy a newly designed environmentally friendly green flow restrictor.

Lets hook up the Tubes and Let it go

8.1 Connect the manual shut off valve to the "in" side of the system. The feed water line (from the cold water) goes into the manual shut off valve.

8.2 The line from the faucet goes to the single connector on other side of the the filter thats sits on top of the membrane housing .

8.3 The other hose goes from the double connector (tee) at the beginning of the final filter to the tank.

8.4 Turn the waste water valve restrictor so its all the way up or open. (counter clockwise)

Connecting the FEED WATER line:

The connector may not be exactly as shown, there are possibly three kinds, they all work the same. Just tighten them around the pipe, you may need to snug it up once you turn on the water.

        
Position the needle-piercing valve where you can get to it. It is normally best to have the valve handle on the right (unless you are left-handed) and the connection facing towards the cabinet doors. Tighten the two nuts and bolts. Make sure the line from the needle piercing valve is connected to the "IN" side of the three big filters across the bottom of the system before you pierce the line.

 Clamp the cold water pipe after your shut off valve and twist the needle in to the soft copper pipe. If everything looks good, then turn the handle clockwise and pierce the pipe. When it is all the way in, twist it all the way out. Do not---unless a special situation---use this as an on-off valve as the stem will wear out.

It is a good idea to flush the pre-filters prior to hooking them up . Just hook up the yellow discharge line to the third filter (the "out" side of the big 3 filters across the bottom), and let the water run for 5 minutes or so. When it's done, reconnect the yellow discharge line to where it was originally.